"E" = Electrode (arc welding). First two digits (60) = Tensile strength in KSI (60,000 psi). Third digit (1) = Welding position: 1 = all positions, 2 = flat & horizontal only. Last digit (0) = Coating type & polarity: 0 = cellulose sodium (DC+), 1 = cellulose potassium (AC/DC+), 3 = titania (AC/DC±), 8 = low hydrogen (AC/DC+).

Both are deep-penetration, fast-freeze electrodes for all positions. E6010 runs on DC+ only and is preferred for pipe welding root passes. E6011 has potassium added to the coating, allowing it to run on AC or DC+ — ideal for field work with AC-only machines or when arc blow is a problem.

E7018 is a low-hydrogen electrode producing stronger welds (70 KSI tensile) with excellent crack resistance — ideal for structural steel, bridges, pressure vessels, and code-quality work. E6013 is a general-purpose rod (60 KSI) with softer arc and smoother bead appearance, better for sheet metal, light fabrication, and cosmetic welds. E7018 requires proper dry storage; E6013 is more forgiving.

E6013 is widely considered the most beginner-friendly stick electrode. It has a smooth, stable arc, easy slag removal, and works on AC or DC. E7014 is another great option with iron powder for higher deposition and easy restarts. Beginners should avoid E6010 initially as it requires a tight arc and more skill to control.

For metal thinner than 1/8" (3 mm), use 3/32" (2.4 mm) or 1/16" (1.6 mm) electrodes at lower amperage (40–70A). E6013 in 3/32" is excellent for thin sheet metal. Using a rod that's too thick will burn through the workpiece. Always use DC- (DCEN) polarity if available for less penetration on thin materials.

Low-hydrogen rods like E7018 must be kept dry to prevent hydrogen-induced cracking (HIC). Store sealed in a rod oven at 250–300°F (120–150°C). Once opened, use within 4–9 hours (depending on code). If exposed to atmosphere, re-bake at 500–800°F (260–425°C) for 1–2 hours. For hobbyists, a sealed container with desiccant packs is a minimum.

E6010 and E6011 are excellent for overhead welding because their fast-freeze slag solidifies quickly, preventing drips. E7018 also works well overhead due to its thick slag that holds the molten pool. Use a tight arc and slightly lower amperage than you would for flat position. For E7018 overhead, reduce amps by ~10–15% versus flat position settings.

Rod sticking is usually caused by: (1) Amperage too low — increase by 5–15A increments. (2) Arc length too short — maintain a gap roughly equal to the rod diameter. (3) Poor striking technique — use a scratch or tap motion. (4) Damp electrodes — E7018 especially becomes sticky when moist. (5) Wrong polarity — verify your machine setting matches the rod requirement.

E6010 and E6011 are the go-to electrodes for rusty, painted, or dirty steel. Their deep penetration and aggressive arc can burn through surface contaminants. E7018 requires clean metal for quality results — its low-hydrogen nature makes it sensitive to rust and moisture. For the best results, always clean your workpiece with a grinder or wire brush first.

DC+ (DCEP) = Electrode positive. About 70% of the heat goes into the workpiece, producing deeper penetration. Most stick electrodes (E6010, E7018) use DC+. DC- (DCEN) = Electrode negative. More heat stays at the electrode tip, giving shallower penetration — good for thin metal to avoid burn-through. AC alternates polarity each half-cycle, providing a balance suitable for E6011, E6013, and E7018 AC.

A general rule: 1 amp per 0.001" of rod diameter. For a 1/8" (0.125") rod, start at ~125 amps. More precisely: 3/32" = 40–80A, 1/8" = 75–150A, 5/32" = 110–200A, 3/16" = 160–260A. Adjust based on: thicker material needs more amps; overhead/vertical need ~10–15% less; tight joints need less; wide gaps need more. Listen for a smooth "frying bacon" sound — that's your sweet spot.